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Urban Architecture In Budapest
(And HowThe Communists Got It Right For Once)
01 June 2005 
Communist architecture has a certain reputation - epitomized in the stereotype of the grey, monolithic tower-block; and the city of Budapest has, it is true, its fair share of these on its outskirts. But the city center, in contrast, exhibits a wealth of architectural beauty that shames any city in England. And why? Because the communists (albeit quite by accident) got something very, very right.

We are the first to admit that we don't know too much about architecture - it's one of those things (like taxes and re-plastering) that we prefer to leave to the professionals. On the other hand we ARE from Colchester, and as Martin Newell once observed, people from Colchester "know what they don't like." This, when it comes to architecture, is the sixties.

The monstrosities of the sixties - all function over form - dominate the high streets and city centers of England. Beautiful Victorian (and older) buildings were ripped out or disemboweled, and replaced with ugly-great slabs of concrete, which have a tendency to eclipse everything around them, even where they aren't in a majority.

In down-town Budapest, however, this did not occur. It was a wealthy city, and presumably was in fine condition going into World War II. The war did more than its share of damage, we imagine, but nevertheless much clearly survived intact - in good enough condition that the communist government, with scarce resources, was able to simply leave things alone. In short, the communist's lack of investment meant that the sixties simply didn't happen.

Of course, things fell into a degree of disrepair. Even today, many buildings support wooden stilts holding up their balconies, or "skirts" protecting passers-by from falling masonry. But nevertheless, the beauty remains there to behold - the mosaic roofs, the gold-leafed gables, the ornate balcony ironworks, and the elaborate moldings and statues. And best of all... there is hardly a sixties carbuncle in sight!

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